December 10, 4:50 PM
Buenos Aires
Today we were whisked to the venue at about 10:30 AM for a 12:30 PM concert. The venue was out-of-doors at the Paseo Astor Piazzolla, in the shadow of the big obelisk in the middle of town. The other band scheduled to perform was the Gyps Yiddishe Brass Band, one of the Buenos Aires ensembles. We were dropped off with all our stuff at what appeared to be a small construction site at the end of a (mostly) pedestrian side-street. It appeared that the construction site would eventually turn into the stage upon which we would perform, but it was too soon to be sure. None of the organizers were anywhere to be seen, so we commandeered a table at a nearby café, keeping a close eye on our stuff and the progress of the stage builders. It was a very nice morning, sunny but with a breeze. We enjoyed our various beverages as the stage was gradually constructed. Okay, maybe “constructed” isn’t the right word. “Imagined” might be a little closer. As in: We imagined that a stage would be constructed in the not-too-distant future, but that seemed wildly unrealistic, so instead we imagined schlepping ourselves and all our stuff back to the hotel in a couple hours having not played a concert. What we were witnessing was about fifteen guys hanging around, surrounded by huge boards and metal braces and other building materials. At any given time, three to four of them were actively rearranging the building materials. Whichever ones weren’t moving stuff around were either congregating for short meetings or wandering off somewhere and eventually returning. It seemed like an obvious parody of unionized labor.
Buenos Aires
Today we were whisked to the venue at about 10:30 AM for a 12:30 PM concert. The venue was out-of-doors at the Paseo Astor Piazzolla, in the shadow of the big obelisk in the middle of town. The other band scheduled to perform was the Gyps Yiddishe Brass Band, one of the Buenos Aires ensembles. We were dropped off with all our stuff at what appeared to be a small construction site at the end of a (mostly) pedestrian side-street. It appeared that the construction site would eventually turn into the stage upon which we would perform, but it was too soon to be sure. None of the organizers were anywhere to be seen, so we commandeered a table at a nearby café, keeping a close eye on our stuff and the progress of the stage builders. It was a very nice morning, sunny but with a breeze. We enjoyed our various beverages as the stage was gradually constructed. Okay, maybe “constructed” isn’t the right word. “Imagined” might be a little closer. As in: We imagined that a stage would be constructed in the not-too-distant future, but that seemed wildly unrealistic, so instead we imagined schlepping ourselves and all our stuff back to the hotel in a couple hours having not played a concert. What we were witnessing was about fifteen guys hanging around, surrounded by huge boards and metal braces and other building materials. At any given time, three to four of them were actively rearranging the building materials. Whichever ones weren’t moving stuff around were either congregating for short meetings or wandering off somewhere and eventually returning. It seemed like an obvious parody of unionized labor.
We were enthralled. We’re from a place where everyone’s of German or Scandinavian descent and punctuality is the order of the day and ORDER AT ANY COST. But this…we weren’t used to this. It got to be noon and when were the sound guys going to show up? Was this REALLY the venue and what if what we thought was going to be the stage was in reality something much more complicated and hard to build? WOULD there be sound guys? Occasionally a guy with a suit or a lady would show up for the worker meetings. Okay, this was probably some kind of union thing. Also, there was a hotel across the street where we could see a worker climbing down a ladder that led down to a narrow terrace on the third floor to an open window on the fourth floor. It looked really dangerous. Too dangerous to watch, too dangerous not to watch. Luckily, he made a safe landing.
SO THEN it was like noon, the concert was “starting” at 12:30 and the “stage” was a bunch of huge pipes cobbled together next to a pile of lumber and we were having a good time but starting to really wonder. Then, two significant events occurred: 1) a van full of sound equipment pulled up near the site, stayed a couple of minutes while some guys conversed, and then drove off, and 2) a plastic portable toilet thing was delivered and placed near the site. 1 was significant because it at least confirmed that we weren’t the only ones who were expecting a concert to occur. 2 was significant because it turned out to be the whole reason the stage in all likelihood wouldn’t be ready for a 12:30 hit. We later learned that union rules require that there be a portable toilet of the type that we had seen delivered at any work site. Apparently our portable toilet had arrived late, disgruntling the workers and causing a rift and a glacial slowdown. From the workers’ standpoint, this is understandable; they shouldn’t be expected to tolerate substandard conditions. The weird thing was what happened after the portable toilet had been delivered: the worker guys up and left, leaving the skeleton of the stage sitting there, a gnarled monument to futility. WHY did they wait for the porta-toilet get there and THEN leave?
Los Syndicatos!
Or something beyond our comprehension entailing city politics, union politics, someone wasn’t bribed enough or the right person wasn’t bribed, who knows. SO, for whatever reason, the concert got cancelled, but not before the other band started assembling. After an interval of milling about and bafflement and awkward overtures we decided to play anyway and gradually began de-casing our instruments. The other band did too, and eventually we were having a KICK-ASS AMAZING KLEZMER JAM right there on the pavement. Because Gyps Yiddishe Brass Band and Yid Vicious don’t need no stinkin’ stage. Gyps Yiddishe are all young guys with much energy and verve. We played a bunch of music together and separately and had lots of fun. People gathered around and watched. Some clapped, others danced, and it was a really fun time, probably more fun than if we had been on a big stage far from each other and standing above the audience.
Afterward, Alejandro treated us to lunch (Che sushi!) and we hung around with the members of KlezmerDuo, who are making the westerly trip with us. They seem very easy-going and we at The Vicious Traveler look forward to spending time with them.
Meanwhile: URUGUAY!
Meanwhile: URUGUAY!
December 10??!? I knew Argentina might be in a different time zone from WI, but I didn't realize how much different time was in the southern hemisphere.
ReplyDeleteKia, Geoff & friends!
ReplyDeleteCate and I are enjoying reading about the Yid Vicious adventures. We read it while we eat our lunch. Keep it up and thanks for the entertainment!